Rome

by Rich Olimpio · Published April 1, 2019 · Updated December 26, 2020

Rome was the capital of the Roman Empire before it was even an Empire. The city was founded as a settlement on the Palatine hill in the first half of the seventh century B.C. The Romans expanded, first in Italy, then throughout the mediterranean and as far as today’s England. The city of Rome remained the capital city until the Emperor Diocletian moved it to Mediolanum – today’s Milan – in 286 A.D. Today the planning for any building project in Rome includes time to evaluate what to do about the ancient historical ruins which are always encountered. Rome recently added a third subway line. The subway itself in located deep enough to not disturb ruins, but access to the subway requires stations connected to the surface. The new subway station near the Colosseum now has part of the walls of a Roman bath incorporated into it.

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Churches

You can’t swing a dead cat in Rome without hitting a church, so it is impossible to cover them all. A summary of some of the most important churches can be found in the Vatican post.

Colosseum

The colosseum, originally called the Flavian amphitheater, was built on the site of the lake of Nero’s palace, the Domus Aurea, by Vespasian using the spoils from crushing the Jewish rebellion. If you look at the inside of the arch of Titus, you can see a relief of Roman soldiers carrying the treasure from the temple, including a menorah. It took 10 years to build and was opened by his son Titus a year after his death. In A.D. 80 it opened to crowds of 60,000 Romans. The inaugural games lasted over 100 days and witnessed the deaths of over 9,000 animals. After the opening games, animal hunts, executions and of course gladiatorial battles were held here for almost 400 years. One popular myth is that christians were martyred here, but there is no historical evidence of that. The part of the outer ring which is missing collapsed during an earthquake in the mid 1300s.

Hint: there are often long lines at the colosseum, however, the line is just to buy tickets. To avoid the line, you can buy your ticket across the street at the entrance to the Palatine hill or at the entrance to the forum, since all three use the same ticket. You can purchase a tourist card such as the RomaPass or the SUPER card – see below – and skip the line.

Roma Pass

House of Augustus

Trajan’s market

The worlds first shopping mall. The curved shape was so it would wrap around Trajan’s forum. A secondary function was to support the hill which was cut into to build Trajan’s forum. The area in the foreground was the location of one of the exedra on each side of the basilica, taking the rounded shape of the market.

Under each one of these arches was a shop selling food and goods from all over the empire

The column on the right was part of the exedra of the Forum of Trajan, giving the the shopping center it’s distinctive shape

The forums

The Roman forum was the center of the western world for centuries. The original forum is called the Roman Forum. In addition, there are five adjacent imperial forums, built by Caesar, Augustus, Vespasian, Nerva and Trajan.

Roman Forum

The Roman Forum was the center of the western world for hundreds of years. It became less important with the fall of the Republic and rise of the Emperors. It is difficult to recognize the grandeur of this spot looking at these ruins. This area flooded often and was covered with silt for centuries. It served as a quarry for marble and other building materials used in buildings throughout Rome. A number of homes were built here and it was even a cattle pasture.

Senate Building

This is the Senate House in the Roman Forum. The original building was constructed in about 500 B.C. That building was torn down during a re-construction of the forum. Caesar was in the process of building a new one when he was assassinated at the Theater of Pompey in 43 B.C.. The Theater of Pompey was located at what is called Area Sacra di Largo Argentina about a mile from the forum. The Senate building built by Caesar burned down in the late third century. The building we see today was it’s replacement built by Diocletian. It was originally faced in marble which was taken for other buildings.

Temple of Antonius and Faustina

The Temple of Antonius and Faustina, located in the Roman Forum was originally built by the emperor Antonius Pio to his wife Faustina. After his death and his deification, it was renamed in honor of both of them. As with many Roman buildings, it was remodeled as a Christian church. The dark door half way up the building was the entrance to the church. It’s level indicates the ground level in the middle ages when the building was converted.

Umbilacus Urbis Romanae

While in the Roman Forum, look next to the arch of Septimius Severus and look for this pile of Roman bricks. It is what is left of the “umbilicus urbis Romanae”, or the center of the Roman world. Originally I was a round marker clad in marble with a peaked top covered in gold. This is mile marker zero for all Roman roads. So, in the old saying, “all roads lead to Rome”, they all lead here.

Temple of Vesta

The Temple of Vesta was the most important temple in the Forum. Vesta was the goddess of the hearth, representing the home and Roman virtue. The temple was round, to mimic the original round huts built by the original settlers. Inside was the the hearth fire dedicated to Vesta. The house of the vestals was located behind this temple. The Vestal virgins were the most important priestesses of Rome. They were responsible to make sure the flame never went out. They presided over important festivals and had an honored place in the Colosseum and Circus Maximus. They could pardon criminals and were responsible for protection of wills and other important state documents. Touching a vestal was punishable by death. Vestals were selected as children and served a 30 year term. During that time, they could not marry and have children. If they violated their vows, they were put to death by being buried alive.

Funeral pyre of Julius Caesar

Julius Caesar was a popular general after his conquest of Gaul, Today’s France. He had aspirations to rule over Rome, leading him to take power by force and make himself dictator for life. Senators feared the lose of power and assassinated him on the aides of March, 43 B.C. This is the spot in the forum where legend says the body of Julius Caesar was cremated. A you can see, even to this day, flowers and gifts are left to honor him.

Area Sacra di Largo Argentina

The Area Sacra di Largo Argentina is located about a mile away from the Roman forum surrounded by the city and easily missed. It has the ruins of three temples, which are among the oldest in Rome. Another more important building, now gone, was here as part of the Theater and Curia of Pompey. Caesar was having the senate house in the forum rebuilt, so the senate was meeting in this curia. It was here that he was assassinated. This picture was taken from the spot where that building was located.

Basilica of Constantine

The term basilica come from greek. Romans used the term Basilica for buildings used as law courts and meeting places. Later, Christians used that name for their large important churches. Several basilicas are located in the forum, the Basilica Aemilia, Basilica Julia and the Basilica of Maxentius and Constantine. The Basilica of Constantine was the largest building in the Roman Forum. It’s construction was begun by the Emperor Maxentius and after he was defeated and killed at the battle of the Milvian bridge it was taken over and completed by Constantine. It was in the standard basilica format, consisting of a large center isle flanked by a smaller isle on each side. Today only one of the side isles remains. An immense statue of a constantine seated on a throne was located in an apse at the end of the main isle. Several pieces of that statue remain and are in the Capitoline museum and give an idea of just how large it was.

These three large arches are the remaining side isle of the basilica

Hand from statue, located in the Capitoline Museum

Arches

Romans built arches to celebrate victories of great generals, however, many have been lost over time. A few can even be found incorporated into other structures around ancient Rome. They would have originally been topped with a bronze Quadriga of the Emperor driving a chariot in battle. An example of a quadriga can be seen today atop the capital building located next to the forum. The best preserved and most famous are located in or near the Roman forum. The most famous is the Arch of Constantine, dedicated to the Emperor Constantine, who legalized Christianity and founded a new capital city he names after himself, Constantinople – today Istanbul. The Arch of Titus was built in honor Emperor Titus after his short reign and death. Decorating the arch are scenes of the riches brought back from Jerusalem after he and his father, future emperor Vespasian, suppressed the Jewish rebellion and raided the Jewish temple there.

Example of a quadriga, located on the Capital Building, similar to the type usually on the top of arches.

Palatine hill

The Palatine hill was where Rome was founded. It was originally the place where Rome’s elite had their mansions. Over time, later emperors pushed them off the Palatine, covering it with one large combination home and offices of state. Our word Palace comes from the word Palatine.

House of Augustus and Livia

The first emperor, Augustus, and his wife Livia, had a mansion, but not a palace on the Palatine hill. The remains of that mansion, covered for several thousand years have been excavated and are now open to the public for tours. A link to the tour is below. They lived a simple life compared to later emperors. He ruled for over 40 years, living to 77 years old. He was succeeded by Tiberius, Livia’s son.

The markings on these lead pipes identified this as the house of Livia

Eating

From breakfast on the rooftop of my hotel, to a delicious pizza at a sidewalk restaurant. And yes, that is a McDonalds, I include it because it has ancient Roman city walls which go through the restaurant. Finally, a picture of the freezer case at the market near my hotel, some things are just wrong.